The Bite of Life

If the cliché fits, wear it! Wear it proudly!

Over the recent holidays, this “I’ve cooked one to many meals at home during this pandemic” foodie took his family to Roots Southern Table at Mustang Station in Farmers Branch. Throughout 2021, I enjoyed reading repeated accolades that Chef Tiffany Derry and her business partner Tom Foley we amassing in printed and digital publications. Chef Derry’s life experience helped marry her sense of warmth and inclusion, her rich family history, and her culinary signature into a magnificent addition to the Dallas food scene. The proof comes from repeat patrons who have become super fans and from reputable influencers. The Dallas Observer rates Roots as the best new restaurant of 2021. The NY Times included it on the list of the 50 “most vibrant and delicious restaurants in 2021”. Esquire Magazine rated it #4 on the Top 40 New Restaurants in the US.

Delicious and Vibrant

VIBRANT……..Tom Foley and his front of the house team are so warm and welcoming. Despite the impact that the past two years have had on the restaurant industry, the sense you get from this team is a true appreciation for our support. There is a sense that every team member wants you to feel welcome, and stress relieved. From greeter to server, to table attendant, to food expeditor, all are engaged in your experience. The dining room was neither intimate or cavernous. It was large enough to accommodate a party of 12 comfortably. This group was so comfortable, in fact, that they broke out into a wonderful rendition of Stevie Wonder’s Happy Birthday To You. The impromptu celebration was welcomed by all.

DELICIOUS…….If you are not familiar, Chef Derry was a contestant on Bravo’s Top Chef. But the “roots” of her journey to food superstardom started from humble beginnings. Like so many of us, our ancestors welcomed people to their homes with food. Such was the case for Chef. Growing up in Beaumont, her grandmother’s home was a meeting place for family and friends. The smells, the tastes, and the textures of the matriarch’s delicacies inspired Chef to share her family’s special gifts with us. She now includes her own thoughtful interpretations and and explores the new while still holding true to the essence of the dish. She differentiates family recipes from her own in a clever way on the menu; Down Home Roots and Modern Roots. One of the best finds inspired from the down home side of the menu are the stewed greens and meaty potlikker that will win over even the most hesitant. I referenced texture earlier. This is the perfect example. The greens melt in your mouth. The hot water cornbread for sopping is a must!

Between the signature duck fat fried chicken and the other over-the-top entrée choices it was hard to include an item from the Modern Roots offerings. We settled on the Charred Romanesco and were not disappointed. The crunchy romaesco was roasted perfectly and bathed in a lemon vinaigrette. An anchovy sauce imparted a nutty flavor while duck fat fried breadcrumbs crowned this perfect side bite.

But let’s get back to the chicken, shall we? After all, this selection is a must on every visit and I’ll tell you why. In today’s world where we KNOW what a healthy food choice is, it’s a special day when we decide to go down the “fried” path! We have become very selective about when we will splurge and where we will indulge in such debauchery. For fried chicken, there is no other option in DFW. Derry’s brined and perfectly breaded version is juicy, tender, and flavorful. The trouble is that you have to order for two or four people. Actually this wasn’t any trouble for our foursome. We decided to order for four and use it as an appetizer for passing similar to Chinese restaurant style dining. In this way, we were free to order other appetizers and make a selection from their world class list of entrees.

In standard fashion we overordered so that we could try as many things as possible. One highlight was the short ribs. The Roots team adopted the latest fad in cooking styles; Sous Vide. They cryo-vaced the meaty boneless ribs and immersed them in a constant hot water bath for 48 hours. The gruyere potato fondue was the perfect texture compliment to this family favorite.

Mom’s Orange Juice Butter Cakes was just what we needed to round out the evening. As we marveled at the sweetness perfection, the diners nearby began again with their rendition of Happy Birthday. I think all of us in the dining room felt like we were being treated to a very special birthday meal; the one that becomes a fond memory for all time.

We can’t wait to return and make more memories with Chef, Tom, and team.

The question in our house became, “What do we do on a dreary November day?” We knew we needed to go to the grocery store and shop for Thanksgiving. However when we saw the long line of …

Source: IT’S NOT YOUR COLLEGE STUDENT’S RAMEN!!!!

The question in our house became, “What do we do on a dreary November day?” We knew we needed to go to the grocery store and shop for Thanksgiving. However when we saw the long line of …

Source: IT’S NOT YOUR COLLEGE STUDENT’S RAMEN!!!!

As we say good-bye to the days of Summer, as nightfall comes earlier and earlier with each passing day, and as the heat abates and the air develops a slight chill our thoughts begin to turn to the …

Source: Getting Ready for Thanksgiving!

menu

In a town that’s known for it’s food you might think it hard for a small, quirky, non-Cajun, non-Creole, counter-service restaurant to find a niche in the market. Not so for New Orleans’ relatively new gourmet grilled cheese sandwich eatery.  While working in New Orleans for a few weeks I quickly got over wanting to eat red beans and rice, jambalaya, and oysters on the half shell every day. My pursuit of the best Poboy sandwich and the most flavorful gumbo began to bore me. One night I happened to stumble upon The Big Cheezy. This sandwich shop that “pushes the boundries of the classic grilled cheese” sits on the main drag through the New Orleans suburb of Kenner. It would be their third installment. Their flagship store is on Tulane and Broad and one can be found in the French Quarter.

stark yet bright interiors give off a casual vibe in a clean setting

watch the team create your awe-inspiring sammie!

When stepping up to the counter I was greeted with the most warm smile by Jasmin Jones. She asked if it was my first time in and when I responded yes she graciously walked me through “how it works”. She was eager to explain that there were signature sandwiches on the menu and that I am free to add, delete, or substitute any item to make it the perfect sandwich for my palette. She then smiled again and said that I could just create my own sandwich if I choose. She further explained that there were sides and soups (also cleverly referred to as dipping sauces). My sandwich was delivered to the table by Manager Will Bowden. He ran down a bit of the history of the joint. It was evident that both Jasmin and Will were glad that I was there. They really appreciated the business. This type of welcome and service is seldom seen these days. Sometimes it seems like people could care less if you eat at their place or not. Not so at The Big Cheezy!

Manager Will Bowden and Sandwich expert Jasmin Jones……service with a smile!

It was hard to choose which sandwich would be my inaugural introduction to a world outside of the traditional Poboy. Jasmin explained that their “The Juice” sammie was their most popular. I watched one come out of the kitchen and did not doubt her. On grilled sourdough and carefully layered between oozing gooey melted jack cheese and cheddar were piles of grilled green bell peppers and roast beef with NOLA famous “debris” gravy. The sight of the sandwich made me wonder if I had ordered the right thing. You see, I went a different route. One name stood out to me, “The Old Goat”. Then when I read what was featured on the old goat, I had to have it. But “The Juice”. I coveted my neighbor diner’s sandwich. Was this a sin?

The Juice with a side of waffle fries!

I digress! It was “The Old Goat” for me. Many who know this blogger knows that a sandwich that is his namesake must be the selection. Tangy goat cheese and creamy cheddar are melted on top of grilled peppers and thick-cut applewood smoked bacon. If that wasn’t enough, the mouth-watering concoction is crowned with a shmear of red pepper jelly. I quickly forgot about my neighbor’s sandwich. I found myself wanting to eat as slowly as I could to savor every bite and really take in the unusual yet very complimentary flavor combinations. Not to discount the sandwich but I must mention that I ordered the creamy tomato-basil soup for dipping. Wow, what a combo! This soup puts La Madeline to shame.

The Old Goat and it’s smooth sidekick tomato basil soup

A build your own sandwich creation

In the age of specialty burger joints and taco boutiques popping up on every corner it was refreshing to see a new player in the game to keep us eating out. And to think that this concept is right in the middle of  the land of Creole and Cajun cuisine is refreshing. So move over John Besh…….Will, Jasmin, and the crew are putting their footprint on the New Orleans food scene and they wear a size 13.

Christopher Kimball

From the countryside in Vermont the quirky Christopher Kimball and his talented team of kitchen clinicians have created a culinary empire that appeals to food nerds like me as well as kitchen wannabes.  As a home cook I enjoy trying standard dishes that are commonly found in American households. However, until I started relying on America’s Test Kitchen for methods and techniques to follow, I must admit that most of my creations were not worth making a second time. Since becoming familiar with the trio of Cook’s Country, Cook’s Illustrated, and America’s Test Kitchen Cookbooks I have been able to produce WOW dishes that my family asks for time and time again.

Why does it work? It works because each recipe is preceded by a short one or two paragraphs detailing “why this recipe works”. In this little bit of lagniappe, Kimball is so insightful with helpful hints regarding technique, how to shop for your ingredients, and how to think about things differently so that textures and flavors are optimized to create a dish to remember. Once completed, the home cook fully appreciates that the recipe was truly tested time and time again with slight variations to ensure that the published version is over-the-top if followed to the letter.

CASE IN POINT>>>>>>>>>>>>>SLOW COOKER NEW MEXICAN RED PORK CHILI

(from  America’s Test Kitchen’s The Complete Cooking For Two Cookbook)

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons chili powder

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 cloves garlic minced

3/4 cup chicken broth (Kitchen Basic preferred)

1/4 cup brewed coffee

1 tablespoon instant tapioca

2 teaspoons packed dark brown sugar

1 lb. boneless country-style pork ribs, trimmed

salt and pepper

2 tablespoons minced cilantro

1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest

1 1/2 teaspoons lime juice

THE SECRET….ACCORDING TO KIMBALL

When shopping for your country-style pork ribs choose ones with lots of fat and dark meat. Stay away from ribs that look overly lean with pale meat.

METHOD

1. Lightly spray the inside of the slow cooker with Pam cooking spray.
2. Microwave the tomato paste, chili powder, oil, and garlic in a bowl for about a minute until fragrant.
3. Transfer this mixture to the crockpot and stir in the chicken broth, coffee, tapioca, and brown sugar.
4.  Season pork with salt and pepper.
5. Nestle pork in slow cooker and cover.
6. Cook on high for 3-4 hours or on low for 5-6 hours.
7. Using a large spoon skim off the fat that rose to the top.
8. Break up pork into chunks with a tong.
9. Stir in cilantro, lime zest, and lime juice.
10. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
11. Serve with your favorite toppings, i.e. avocado chunks, sour cream, Frito’s, grated cheese, sliced pickled jalapenos, etc…..

Dig in

Kimball says that his latest cook book is “Everything you’ll ever want to make.” I think he’s right. Enjoy.

welcome

Tucked away in the corner of a strip of W. 7th Street in the Bishop Arts District, The Dallas Grilled Cheese Company humbly occupies the former Book Doctor digs. Two doors down from the oddly popular Oddfellows, Mack Simpson and his partners bring comfort food that travels across socio-economic lines.

owner Mack Simpson. photo courtesy of D Magazine

Cape Cod transplant Jennifer Kunze takes the lead in the cholesterol laden kitchen. Appetizers, soups, salads, and sixteen cheesy sandwiches are complimented by 22 beers on tap and 12 signature cocktails.

full service bar adorned with metal works and wood shop accents

kitchen

Until today, thinking of a grilled cheese, I think of my mom’s served on a night that she and dad would be going out for the evening. Until today, thinking of a grilled cheese takes my mind to being seated at the counter in the Highland Park Pharmacy. But today, the simplicity of those sammies seems old school. Millennials want something different. Today’s patrons wants a twist. Young palates crave ingenuity. Our group tried a number of sixteen cheesy gooey selections. The Caprese was a highlight. Grilled sourdough is slathered with garlic compound butter, fresh mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, fresh basil, and homemade basil pesto.

Caprese Chicken

Another standout is D’s BSTC. Grilled sourdough with bacon, spinach, tomato, and gruyere come together to create a sandwich that mom and HP Pharmacy can only imagine! Of all the soups the Cheesy Brew Soup was the most unique. Celery, garlic, yellow onion, thyme, butter, heavy cream, and a local micro-brew marry to provide a create a great vessel for dunking any sandwich on the menu.

D’s BSTC

Menu

Comfort food made funky in a rustic setting made welcoming. Take the Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge across the mighty Trinity River for a cheesy good time. Oh, that was a bit cheesy, wasn’t it?

One of Karen and Richard Carpenter’s biggest top 40 hits lamented that “rainy days and Mondays always get me down”. Not so in our home!  Despite having fresh spring-time colds and congestion we decided to open the dutch-door in the kitchen/breakfast room, let the sound of the storms fill our home and get down to creating a comforting dish. It is ironic that one of Karen Carpenter’s songs might inspire us to cook. Nonetheless the list of needed ingredients was simple and available in our pantry and refrigerator.  So off we went.

yes, that is an entire pod of garlic sliced in half!

INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs

2 large carrots, cut into matchsticks

1 medium yellow onion, diced

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons salt, divided

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 bay leaves

1 cup Chardonnay, use what you would drink. Don’t cheap out!

1 box low salt chicken broth, Kitchen Basics brand preferred

2 cup medium grain white rice ( such as Jasmine) or wild rice, we prefer the simple white

1 head garlic, cut in 1/2

1/2 cup grated parmesan, go ahead and grate it yourself. You can do it.

1/3 cup flat leaf parsley, chopped

METHOD:

Get everything you will need prepped ahead so that when it comes time to cook you can easily move through the process. Trim the thighs to remove any excess fat or skin left by the butcher. Cut into one inch pieces. Put that nasty raw chicken on the other side of the kitchen and sanitize your workspace with bleach/water. Get out a different cutting board. Peel carrots and cut into matchsticks. Dice Onion.  Put chicken broth is a separate bean pot and warm over a low heat. Put the olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter into a medium high heat large Dutch oven. Once butter is melted throw the carrots and onions in the hot tub. Season with 1 teaspoon of salt and cook until tender and just golden (7-8 minutes). Now it’s time for that nasty raw chicken to go into the hot tub. It’s joined by the bay leaves, another teaspoon of salt and the black pepper. Stir occasionally so that the meat is browned on all sides ( 7-10 minutes).

Now the party starts! Add the wine and turn the heat up. Boil down the wine while scraping up the brown bits on the bottom of the pot. Cook until the wine is almost evaporated. Add the warm chicken stock and stir in the rice. Place the cut head of garlic cut side down in the middle of the pot on top of the rice. Drop the temp to low, cover, and simmer until rice is fully cooked (15-18 minutes).

Turn off the heat, gently remove the garlic, and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Let that melt and then follow it with the grated parmesan and chopped parsley. Stir.

The dish should be creamy and immediately give you a warm sense of comfort.

Enjoy it with those you love.